Updates from our travels along the Yangtze

EC215 is on its way to China.  Students will begin their trips in Boston, New York, and Washington, converge on Atlanta, and head to Shanghai.  Professor of Chinese Literature and Culture/Tour Guide Jason will meet the group at the Pudong airport on January 6 and take them to the Huangpu River Cruise, where Professor Brown will connect with the group. 

Watch this space for periodic updates from our travels.

After a long day of travel, we arrived in Shanghai at about 3:00 pm. We got out suitcases and then met our guides, Jason and Larry, in the lobby of the airport. We boarded the bus and, while traveling for an hour to our hotel, Jason and Larry gave us a brief history of Shanghai and told us about the different parts of the city that we would be visiting during the next couple of days. When we arrived at the hotel, we took a one-our rest during which we showered and settled into our rooms. At 5:45 pm, we met Jason and Larry in the lobby of the hotel and boarded the bus to go to dinner. Though Professor Brown had not yet arrived, we had a wonderful dinner in a private room at a restaurant in Shanghai. We ate steamed buns with pork, tofu, steamed vegetables, eggplant, french fries, and several other dishes that, though we couldn't quite identify them, were delicious.

After dinner, we were scheduled to take a river cruise on the Huangpu river to see Shanghai at night. Though it was rainy and fairly cold, we had fun standing on the top deck of the ship and taking pictures of the Shanghai buildings lit up. We were especially excited to see the Oriental Pearl TV Tower that we had read so much about in our readings this semester. Jason and Larry pointed out the architecture of the city, showing us the very modern, almost Disneyworld-like buildings on one side of the river and the older, more classically designed buildings on the left. We spent the end of the river cruise on the ship's warm second level where, due to jetlag and our long day of traveling, we were all very sleepy and some fell asleep. After the cruise, we got back on the bus and went back to the hotel; after meeting up with Professor Brown in the lobby, we all happily went to bed.

Rachel

Our day began at 7am.  After breakfast at the hotel, we visited Shanghai Waigaoqiao Shipbuilding Co. (SWS) and Yangshan Container Terminal. We were accompanied by Chih-Chien Hsu, a Colby graduate, during our trips.  At SWS, a representative gave us a tour around the shipyard on a bus.  Unfortunately, we were not able to walk around outside for safety reasons.  Our second stop was the Yangshan Container Terminal.  Before the visit to Yangshan Container Terminal, Mr. Hsu told us about the way containerization has helped China to become the "factory of the world." The Yangshan Container Terminal is located 32km offshore in the Hangzhou Bay south of Shanghai, connected to mainland via Donghai bridge – the third longest bridge in the world.  During our visit at Yangshan, we got to walk around the terminal and see how the shipping port operated.  To do that we had to climb the stairs build on the hills surrounding the port – we probably walked one and half miles at Yangshan. At the top of the hill we could see the entire shipping port, which is huge in size – able to accommodate 2.2 million containers annually. 

After the visit to Yangshan we headed back to the hotel; however, in order to save time we decided to stop at a Carrefour to avoid rush hour traffic.  In Carrefour we stocked up on snacks for the group.  I guess one way to describe the Chinese Carrefour is as "loud and bright". 

Our day ended with a nice dinner at Mr. Hsu's house in the newest area of Shanghai – Pudong.  He greeted us with a warm welcome and offered us a lot more food than we could handle.  During the visit, Mr. Hsu shared stories of his Colby times and really enjoyed hearing about the student life on the Mayflower Hill today. After the dinner Professor Brown presented Mr. Hsu with a "thank you" gift of a lamp with the Colby logo carved in it.  Around 10pm we headed back to the hotel to get some rest and be ready to leave Shanghai the next morning.

Soelma

Back at Colby, my roommates and I have a minor and only somewhat joking obsession with our Dyson vacuum cleaner. The thing is pretty much a robot monster; we like to say we throw parties to satiate its hunger. Today, the group visited a Philips factory where they make vacuum cleaners much like my Dyson. It was a totally cool experience to see random and unrecognizable plastic parts molded together to create such a common household good.

This morning, we left the lights and glamour of Shanghai and moved west, into a more industrial part of China. We first traveled two hours to the "small" (population 10 million) city of Suzhou, where the Philips Consumer Lifestyle factory is located. Two hours on a bus might sound rough, but I'm finding the bus rides to be incredibly enlightening. The landscape morphed as we moved away from Shanghai. One neat thing Professor Brown has pointed out to us is that many of the houses and apartment buildings dotting the roadside have solar panels, used to heat water. We also noticed that as we moved away from rainy weather in Shanghai, the air grew hazier and hazier. Looking directly up, the sky was blue, but the horizon was shaded in gray. Many people walking or biking the streets wore protective surgical masks. The lay of the land proved especially difficult for us to describe, even to ourselves. The mixture of farmland, aquaculture ponds, factories, construction cranes, coal piles, electric lines, village houses built several stories high thanks to increased wealth, and apartment buildings draped in drying laundry wasn't quite random or inconsistent. Chelsea got it best when she realized it reminded her of a SimCity game.

The particular Philips factory we visited manufactures mainly vacuum cleaners and irons. We were given a brief presentation and then a tour of the factory. Young guys with trendy haircuts, girls with long ponytails, and machines worked together to assemble the 1300 units produced each day by the four factory lines. The place smelled like Elmer's Glue and featured a soundtrack of faint chattering and the sound of drills. I couldn't imagine working 8 hour shifts everyday, screwing the same red plastic top onto vacuum cleaner after vacuum cleaner.

We then drove two hours to Wuxi, which is designated as a rural county, but definitely looks like a cityscape to me. The next stop on our tour was the Wuxi Long Chen Paper Company. We were treated to a long, but interesting presentation by a trio of really enthusiastic and friendly company managers and employees. This paper company makes containerboard and corrugated boxes and boards for shipping, in contrast to the one we visited in Maine which makes higher quality magazine paper. Although we were in the most polluted place I've ever seen, the company apparently focuses a lot on improving environmental standards and practices. On our brief tour of the mill, we saw stacks upon stacks upon stacks of recycled cardboard. All inputs Long Chen uses are recycled, 60 percent from local sources, and 40 percent imported from places like Europe and the U.S.

One of the greatest impressions I was left with today is that nothing is actually made in China. While everything is assembled here, all the bits and pieces that go into the finished product come from elsewhere. Vacuums have parts from Singapore and are constructed using machines from Germany. Paper boxes have company registration in the Cayman Islands and use recycled cardboard from Europe. One of the major draws of going on this trip for me was to see where my stuff actually comes from. I'm finding that question to be truly impossible to answer. China is part of the equation, but really it is just one stop on the global supply chain leading to my dorm room.

Suzanne

Today we traveled west yet again, driving through thick smog that at first seemed like only an overhanging mist. Anything father than the sides of the road appeared as only outlines of a landscape made up of scattered villages, plots of farmland and canals. Our first stop was Huaxi, a place that prides itself on being the richest village in China. We were greeted by our local village guide, dressed in trendy high leather boots and a pink button down jacket. Since the 1960s, Huaxi has grown from a village of one square kilometer to 35 square kilometers and an annual income of US$ 6 billion. A brochure handed out prior to our tour listed money, house, car, child and honor as the five belongings that show the happiness of the Huaxi people. We walked around with a mix of awe and confusion, trying to make sense of this immaculate place with rows upon rows of model homes with an eerie resemblance to Pleasantville. We visited a set of greenhouses and one of the village's factories, which produces rolled steel. A tour of one of the homes left us wondering whether anyone actually lived there because the house seemed so untouched. Over lunch we discussed how the village, although it seems bizarre and a bit tacky to us, encapsulates the current Chinese ideal of prosperity. As Professor Brown pointed out, the village is a homage to wealth, and represents something to which most Chinese aspire to own. We left the town after eating lunch and on the bus felt inspired to write Mao-style poetry (strong and powerful) about the place we had just visited, which later tonight we plan on sharing with each other. Professor Brown is going to decide who has the best poem, and that person will get an A in the class. (Note from Professor Brown: This is news to me)

The highlight of the day for most of us was our dinner banquet hosted by the local government. We arrived at a restaurant and were escorted to the largest private dining hall, adorned with five crystal chandeliers, a red carpet and nearly ten waitresses just for us. We were joined by the assistant secretary general and party secretary of Jiangsu province and some representatives from the cement company. Our hosts were warm and welcoming and wished us the best on the rest of our visit. After being served over thirteen courses and participating in a number of toasts, we concluded the evening by taking lots of photos. Every day is full of surprises here.

Chelsea

Our first visit was the Dayang Ship Building Factory in Yangzhou, a relatively young company producing bulk carriers, container vessels and offshore supply vessels.  Thanks to our connections with Chih-Chien Hsu, an important persona in the shipbuilding industry, we had the honor of attending an elaborate ceremony to celebrate the launching of four new vessels.  Unaware of what to expect, we timidly exited the bus only to be greeted by upbeat Chinese pop music, an array of fireworks, and an army of factory workers equipped with hardhats and construction boots. Amidst the commotion and excitement, we saw the recently constructed ships whose size largely exceeded all of our expectations.  The scene was both overwhelming and somewhat surreal.  Soon, we were summoned on stage for the launching ceremony and, in awe, we took our place amongst company officials and major international investors.  Several speeches were given in Chinese, each followed by an English translation.  Finally, using scissors presented on silk covered platters, the company executives cut the rope of the vessel, symbolizing China's excellence in the shipbuilding industry and commitment to future growth and progress.  Deafened by the roaring crowd and hundreds of fireworks, I was struck by the nationalistic tone of the ceremony, and it was difficult to imagine feeling such sentiments at a similar affair in the United Sates.  

Next, we went on a tour of the factory guided by the head engineer.  We were all blown away by the utter scale of the facility, which was both highly impressive and quite daunting.  Our tour guide was extremely enthusiastic and at times comical, spontaneously stopping to pick up stray garbage and debris on the floor as he guided us step by step through the production process.  His charisma, meticulousness, and technical understanding of shipbuilding made it easy to understand why Dayang has grown exponentially in such a short time. 

We then met with a group of engineers to discuss the South- North water diversion project intended to rectify the extreme shortage of water in Northern China.  This massive project could potentially double grain output and allow for future industrial growth in Northern China that would have otherwise been inhibited.  Although the language barrier during the presentation proved to be frustrating at times, it was interesting to hear the Chinese perspective, which focused largely on economic growth and the technical aspects of the project.  Personally, I felt uneasy when one of the engineers was unable to name any negative consequences of water diversion, and I began to question whether such a project was feasible or sustainable.  At this point, the conflict between sustainability and economic development became apparent, and is something that we will have to contend with throughout the trip.   

I found both visits today to be extremely enjoyable and probably my favorites so far.  The enormous scale of both the shipbuilding factory and the water diversion project was exciting, alarming, and a clear reminder of China's unprecedented growth.  

Brooke

Elderly Chinese citizens are granted free admission into all of China's beautiful public parks. Retired folks like to gather in the early sunlight to take in the surroundings, to enjoy a thermos of tea, and most importantly, to maintain their bodies with daily tai chi, gracefully moving their limbs against a scenic backdrop. Upon waking up, we decided that nothing could top such a morning in the park, and were blessed to find out that Yangzhou is home to one of China's four most famous parks. Too self-conscious to take part in the tai chi, we instead focused on the beauty of the place and the cultural significance of parks in China. Yangzhou's park is renowned for its bamboo, which represent a humble, flexible nature, as bamboo is hollow on the inside and will bend but not break. Shoots of bamboo were coupled with large rocks. Rocks on display in such parks are not just any old rock; they are kept underwater for several years, where they become wrinkled and ridden with holes, two requirements for a good Chinese garden rock. In our second straight morning of sunlight and blue sky, the park was excellent, although no one could quite explain the horde of cats that prowled the premises.

Back on the bus, we turned in the direction of Nanjing, which would take us further inland to the west and back to the southern bank of the Yangtze. Before crossing, we saw several sections of farm land that had been planted with young trees. Professor Brown explained that the government has begun paying farmers not to farm their land, so that instead reforestation can take place. To reach Nanjing, we crossed the first bridge to span the Yangtze, a bridge that was willed into existence by Mao in the 1960's. Debate currently swirls around what to do with the bridge; it is too low to allow very large ships to pass below, hindering trade, but is too culturally significant to simply destroy, and its future remains uncertain.

Once across the river, we stopped at Jainghai Temple, a Buddhist temple that today serves as a museum for the Treaty of Nanjing. The Treat of Nanjing ended the First Opium War between China and Great Britain, opening China up to foreign traders and ceding control of Hong Kong to the British. Known here as the "Unequal Treaty," this agreement was an important event in China's opening to Western trade, and Great Britain's large presence in Nanjing ensured that the Yangtze would play a huge role in such commerce. The temple also houses a large statue of Zheng He, the Chinese admiral who led ships to the eastern coast of Africa, and according to some, possibly as far as the coasts of South America. The museum was opened in 1997 in celebration of Hong Kong's return to China, a very proud moment for all of China as the humiliating events of the Unequal Treaty were overcome.

After another great lunch (I promise I'm getting enough to eat, Mom) we headed to the Nanjing Massacre Museum. This site commemorates the brutal events of December 1937, when invading Japanese forces took Nanjing, then the capital of China, and completely ravaged the city. The most striking aspect of the visit was the outdoor section leading to the museum's entrance. A long, dark wall, reminiscent in color of the Vietnam Wall, stretched the length of the grounds, with the simple phrase "300,000 Victims" etched in each of the world's major languages. The entire grounds are covered in small stones – no plant life is allowed to grow. Inside, we spent two full hours with evidence of the brutal weeks. Placards written in Chinese, English, and Japanese described the chain of event, artifacts, and haunting photographs that remain, many provided to China by determined Japanese journalists. We have spent a good amount of time on the bus and at meals discussing how tacky many parts of China appear to our eyes, but this was anything but tacky.

We had dinner before walking through a street market; it was a bright, bright scene of flashing neon lights, colored Buddhas, and candied crab apples. After checking out some of the more intriguing stores, namely "Pepsi Cola Sports" and "Squirrel Looking Fish", we headed back into the hotel for the night. Day One in Nanjing was excellent and we look forward to another full day and night here tomorrow.

 John

After getting to sleep in until an extraordinarily late 7:30 AM, we were told to prepare for a full day in the cold Chinese wilderness. Or at least the rural area that qualifies as wilderness here. Having been fully fitted with all the clothes needed for a winter in Maine, we took off for a small island on the Yangtze. Our all-purpose bus boarded a boat, where we were the center of attention for surrounding cars, and we reached a museum dedicated to traditional life in China. Our tour guides, Larry (who's from Nanjing) and Jason, taught us all about silk weaving, medicine shops, and bean paste-making, among other things. It was much more informative than attempting to use the English translations on the signs, which appeared to have been entered into an internet translator. Also at this site, we had the chance to participate in classic Chinese games such as top spin-and-hit. It is beyond the reach of this blog to describe the joy John received from these.

Moving on, we visited the home of a rural family which they have opened up to tourism. We witnessed neighboring farmers working diligently despite the fact that it was winter and got the opportunity to ask the woman of the farm questions about her quality of life. The most interesting point may have been when she shared the Chinese textbook answer that the Great Famine, which is typically attributed by Western economists to the Great Leap Forward and mandatory communes, was caused by "natural disasters." It seems incredibly unlikely that natural disasters took place across the entire country for three years. She seemed aware of this, as she also shared that her parents didn't really work hard during that period, instead simply floating through to the next lunch period.

The highlight of the day may have been the opportunity to cook in her home. We split into three teams of four and each took turns making one of a group of dishes: spinach and oysters, spring onions and snails, and Chinese cabbage and dried tofu. We proceeded to eat our homemade dishes, as well as additional delights prepared by our hostess. Our three judges split evenly on which group won, but since our wonderful and informative Professor Brown picked the onions and snails, prepared by the lovely and talented Chelsea, Irina, Jack, and Benjy, they will be receiving the automatic A in the class. (Note from Professor Brown: In addition to being a good cook, Benjy is quite imaginative)

From here, we returned to the boat, which had a decided tilt in the direction of our boat as we crossed the river, and headed to Dr. Sun Yat-Sen's mausoleum. The "father of modern China," he traveled the globe, pushing for self-determination for the Chinese people. It was a beautiful monument to a man who means as much to ethnic Chinese as George Washington does to Americans. This is also the one site where citizens of both Taiwan and China could always meet in harmony and put aside their differences to salute a mutual hero. Of course, Professor Brown had to sprint up the steps, which is extremely cumbersome in thermal underwear.  

At dinner, we were joined by a newly admitted student from Nanjing, Siyang Xu, and we regaled her with a litany of questions concerning her future endeavors on the Hill. The night concluded with the long-awaited session of KTV (karaoke to those of you not versed in Chinese culture). While some of us tend to the tone-deaf side, yours truly included, there was no doubt that it was a true bonding experience. Nothing brings fourteen people together better than a giant session of "Like a Virgin." As this blog is being concluded after midnight, jet lag has finally been conquered, so of course we're ready to hit the friendly skies again to head westward.

Benjy

Today, we left Nanjing and flew to Chengdu, the provincial capital of Sichuan Province in western China. We left in the afternoon, so had a some free time in the morning. All appreciated sleeping an extra 45 minutes and enjoyed a free morning. Some of us took advantage of our hotel's snazzy gym, while others wandered around the city. Professor Brown took this second group to a traditional market to get a sense of everyday life. On the lower level, people sold vegetables, both pickled and fresh. Additionally, there were stalls that sold dozens of different dried and oiled spices, peppers and pastes. The upper level was home to animal parts and tofu. I say "animal parts" because much of it wasn't what we westerners would consider "meat." Some birds, fish and aquatic animals could be purchased live, but there were also tables topped with parts such as duck tongues, cow hearts, pig hoofs, and probably thirty kinds of tofu…tasty! Actually, the food in China has been "hen hao chi" (very delicious), and we have all been adventurous, trying such delicacies as shark's fin, pig stomach, blood, shrimp heads and turtle stew. 

When we left eastern China for Sichuan, we entered into a whole new realm of Chinese cuisine. Sichuan food is know for its heat, and so far it has not disappointed.

After a spicy and yummy dinner, we went to drink jasmine tea and watch Sichuan Opera. Dancers with long feather hats, comedy actors, musicians playing erhu (a traditional Chinese string instrument) and masters of hand shadows entertained us throughout the show. The finale was "bian lian," which is a dance in which the performers repeatedly change their masks in a fraction of a second, seemingly magically. They will spin around or leap in the air and suddenly they are wearing a different face. Apparently, it is a very secretive art and few know how it is done. If our readers at home are curious about the Sichuan Opera, Professor Brown has recommended the Chinese movie "King of Masks."

Some of us are working on getting over coughs, but in general we are happy and in high spirits in spicy Sichuan.

Petie

The entire group seemed excited for our first day in Sichuan.  Upon arriving at the Dujiangyan Irrigation Project, we learned the irrigation project was not a modern engineering feat, but one that was constructed over two thousand years ago. Although not many of us were on the edge of our seats while driving to the site, we were all impressed by the system of dykes and canals that were constructed long ago, but still effectively irrigate agriculture in the area while simultaneously protecting Chengdu from flooding. Surprisingly, the Dujiangyan Irrigation Project is the only surviving dam-free irrigation system in the world. The project has had few modifications since the time of its creation, but functions with much fewer consequences than modern water works. In addition, the area is surrounded by mountains and forest, which provided a much appreciated break from the city surroundings we have become use to.   

After our visit to the irrigation project, we ate lunch in Dujiangyan City. On the way to the restaurant, we saw a small portion of the damage left by the earthquake that devastated Sichuan last May. Only after seeing a few collapsed buildings, the force of this natural disaster was apparent to us all.

Next, we made our way to Qingcheng Mountain. The ski-style chair lift that normally carries tourists to the top of the mountain was closed for repairs, but this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The beauty of the mountain became clear as we began our hike. I was surprised by the large presence of green vegetation in the middle of winter. The weather was also wonderful and we all took off our jackets as we made our way up the mountain. The mountain is home to several Taoist temples. As we hiked up the mountain, our guides explained the basics of the Taoist religion and the symbolism at each shrine. Looking out over the mountains from the century old temples was truly spectacular and something we will not quickly forget.

The hike up Qingcheng left us fulfilled, but exhausted. We left the mountain and returned to Chengdu for another spicy Sichuan dinner. We returned to the hotel and I expect everyone will sleep soundly after a long day, but great day.

Jack

The day's schedule started a little later this time and there was a felling of excitement and restlessness in the air as we were getting ready to visit one of the most important giant panda breeding centers in China. The humidity in the air specific to the region, combined with the chill of the morning, made everyone shudder as we were getting on the bus with our luggage.

The trip to the breeding center was short but enough for our local guide, John, to brief us on the facility and giant pandas in general. With a population of only 3000 remaining in the world living in clusters because of disappearance of habitat, the giant panda is threatened by gene weakening caused by inbreeding. The two breeding centers in China are making great efforts and conducting extensive research to try and prevent this by very carefully selecting matches to help strengthen the gene pool. We learned about most aspects of the giant panda's life, from birth to mating and nursing. The highlight of the visit was the baby giant panda enclosure, where about 10 panda cubs were playing by climbing the bars on their playpens and pushing each other off the wooden platform that was set around each "playroom". Half not noticing, half ignoring the "no photograph" sign, the entire group pulled out their cameras and the photo frenzy begun. Completely monopolizing the view space, everybody was baby talking to the cute 6-month old baby pandas while they were taken away one by one by the keeper to be fed milk in a nearby room. The general consensus was "awwww they are sooooo cute." The visit also consisted of visiting the red panda and adult giant panda enclosures, and although a significant amount of time was spent photographing them, the highlight remained the baby pandas.  

The second highlight of the day was marked by a visit to the Wenshu Buddhist Temple, one of the two very important Buddhist Temples in Sichuan. It was an interesting visit especially in it came right after seeing a Taoist Temple. It was noted that the similarities between the two religions (or philosophies) come from the same sequence: a free mind leads to understanding and wisdom. Harmony, joy, relieving suffering, and helping the poor were again central ideas that came out of every description that out guide told as we wandered through the temple; at the same time, people were kneeling in front of the Bodhisattva, or merciful Buddhas, saying their prayers while incense smoke was swirling to the sky, delivering their hopes.

The rest of the time before dinner was spent on shopping and especially haggling on a busy street right outside of the Temple. Presents were bought, tea tasted and appreciated in a nearby teahouse, and the language guide extensity used.

Dinner followed and we finally had a chance to try the hot pot that professor Brown had been telling us about. We were divided between three tables which had a fiery soup boiling in the middle to which we added meat and vegetables that boiled in minutes. The peppercorn that we had tried to avoid since we arrived in Sichuan was, in the end, eaten for experimentation and the strange numbing feeling of the mouth that it gave.     

Our visit of Chengdu over, we headed to the train station for a 14 hour trip to our next stop: Panzhihua.    

Irina

Our day began wiping the crust from our eyes from either the first, second, or third bunk on the crowded hard sleeper train, somewhere between Chengdu and Panzhihua.  Now, clean and writing from the current (now standard) four star hotel in Panzhihua, the morning already feels so long ago.  I think all of us will be looking forward to the clean linens tonight, but last's night's adventure is certainly one I won't forget.

Panzhihua feels strikingly different from any other city we've been to, and, so far, is probably my favorite.  It could be the size – its population is only 1.08 million – that makes it feel more manageable and altogether more peaceful, or the sunny, warm weather that makes it feel like spring has sprung!  Happy to see the sun and sport t-shirts, we were all a bit surprised to find out that Panzhihua is not only known for its nice weather but also its pollution.  Knowing a bit more about its history, though, makes it clear.

Threatened by Russia's presence in the north and the U.S.'s presence in Vietnam, Mao developed the western part of China, known as China's Third Front, and Panzhihua fell under this plan.   The city grew with the influx of workers sent west to develop the steel industry, and to this day, the city's wealth derives from the production of steel.  Aptly, our educational excursion for the day was to Panzhihua Iron and Steel Company, and we were blown away!  As we toured the factory, we witnessed molten iron transform into heavy steel beams or long, narrow rails which will eventually become part of a railway system.  Seeing this process was fascinating, not only to watch a tangible product apparently come out of nothing, but also as a contrast to many of the privately-owned factories we've already seen on the trip.  Today, for instance, the pace of work was starkly slower than that of, say, the Dayang Shipbuilding Company, where workers everywhere were frantically working like busy bees.  Despite the slow action, we were able to watch the entire process through, and no doubt walked away in awe.

Our dinner tonight was (almost) as exciting as our visit to the factory.  After much convincing, we were able to persuade the local guide to let us eat in a local restaurant, rather than the hotel's restaurant.  Local, in this sense, by no means meant roughing it.  We sat amongst wealthy-looking businessmen, perhaps celebrating the New Year, with toasts and cheers abounding.  Being able to eat around local people was fun, as always, and we took in all the noises, smells, and crowds with glee.  We also can proudly boast that we've tasted local specialties, including worms and wasp larvae, and only wish we had Chih around to witness it.  

Our night ended wandering around the city square, where we had our first taste of New Year's festivities.  Crowds gathered around mini lantern-balloon launchings, pop stars, and locals line dancing.  It's been another long, thrilling day, and we look forward to spending another day in this city.

Emily

The first stop on our itinerary today was the Ertan Dam on the Yalong River. We left Panzhihua shortly after eight in the morning and followed the Jinsha river valley up to the Yalong. Flanked by steep-rust colored slopes and dotted with shrubby greens, the fast-paced river was already awe inspiring. We circumvented the dam and arrived first at the reservoir, a placid lake of clear blue water. Next, we drove out onto dam. On one side was the lake, on the other, a sheer drop of concrete and granite. It was incredible. 240 meters below the world's third tallest dam, the river continued. Afterwards, we were able to stand in front of the gate for the underground powerhouse (closed on 1-1-09 due to security reasons) and take some photos. Finally, we went to the dam's exhibition center, which described all its wondrous engineering feats. Perhaps the most striking display at the center showed photographs of the 10 other planned dam sites on the Yalong, many of them in pristine areas. We left the dam site contemplating the future of these beautiful gorges and valleys.

We then moved to a light-hearted break in our China adventure: radon heated hot springs! We ate a quick lunch and slid into the 108 degree pool with some fellow Sichuanese vacationers. The sulfur-scented water was wonderfully relaxing, in addition to bright sunlight and summery temperatures (is it true that it hit -20 today in Waterville?). After playing monkey-in-the-middle and a couple rounds of cards, we headed back to the city.

However, we decided to stop along the way to chat with some subsistence farmers. A villager dug potatoes with some hired help while her husband was working of the farm. Each family member in the village was allocated approximately 1/12^th of an acre of land. Although the land was fruitful and water plentiful, it was unbelievable that they are able to survive off that little piece of land.

Our finish to the day was a stroll around the city, where shops sold designer suits for $350, and street vendors sold sweaters for $1. The New Year's celebrations have begun, this year sponsored by "Snow" beer.

Francis

This morning, we were all prepared for our seven-hour bus ride to Lijiang. An hour into the ride, our simple drive turned into something more than many of us had expected. The mountain road became increasingly narrow and the guard rails became increasingly scarce. Our bus driver impressed and scared us as he narrowly dodged oncoming traffic in an effort to pass slower vehicles. When we managed to divert our attention from the road, the views were breathtaking. We looked out at green valleys of farm fields and small villages. Despite the enormous size of China, farm land is still scarce and farmers have sculpted the mountains into terraced rows of crops, making mountainsides look more like giant staircases. 

In the middle of our trip, we stopped in a small roadside village for lunch. The dining room had only three walls, in contrast to our past dining rooms, with an open air view of the road. Despite the lack of chandeliers and a private dining room, the food was great and the street traffic entertaining. Many of us felt it was our favorite lunch of the trip. After the meal, we were able to explore the village before returning to the bus.

The winding roads and fantastic scenery continued in the afternoon. We attempted to view one of the hydroelectric dams being constructed on the Jinsha, the upper reaches of the Yangtze, but were turned away by security guards. The bus made it out of the mountains unscathed and this evening we arrived in Lijiang.

Our hotel is located on the edge of the old town, which has turned into quite the tourist attraction. Maybe the most interesting aspect of the town is the native ethnic minority, the Naxis. The Naxis are one of the only matriarchal based societies in the world. Women are traditionally responsible for business, hard labor and running the household. In addition, inheritance passes from mother to daughter.

The town has progressed quite a bit and is packed with travelers like ourselves. Hundreds of stores sell souvenirs to tourists. One fellow student described the area as a "hippy tourist fusion." Tonight we will be getting plenty of sleep in anticipation for our long hike tomorrow. 

Jack

We woke up at 7:30 am, anxious to begin hiking the Tiger Leaping Gorge trail and to finally have the opportunity to see the sights and views we had heard so much about. After a quick breakfast of toast, cereal, and a traditional Naxi snack in the hotel, we boarded the bus for the two-hour ride to the start of the trail. Earlier the previous day, we had been introduced to our new local guide, Jack, a member of the Black Yi ethnic group from Lijiang who, when not leading groups of hikers, teaches English to local children. At dinner Sunday night, Jack told us of how his grandfather had seven wives and seven slaves; everyone at the table was very surprised to hear that he lived that sort of life as recently as the 1940s. While we sat on the bus, munching on pastries from the hotel and on other snacks brought from home, Jack showed us a map of the Tiger Leaping Gorge area and showed us where we would be hiking both that day and the next morning. Incredibly familiar with the hike and with the area (he later told me that he completes the hike six or seven times a year), Jack told us about the surrounding landscape and nearby communities. Arriving finally at the base of the trail, we all excitedly got off the bus and prepared to start our climb.

When the sun came out, the air warmed up quickly and we all took off the extra layers we had put on earlier that morning. We started in Qiaotou and climbed for about an hour and a half before lunch. Though the ground was dusty and the climbing fairly tiring, we saw some absolutely spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. We had lunch at the Naxi Guest House where, happy to be sitting down and in the shade, we had tea, plenty of rice, a yummy potato pancake dish, thinly sliced dried beef, and other veggie and meat dishes.  After finishing lunch and buying several bottles of water, we resumed the hike with renewed enthusiasm. We all anticipated finally reaching a part of the trail, misleadingly dubbed the "28 turns," notorious for its steepness and difficulty. These turns themselves, of which there actually seemed to be far more than 28, did not seem to be nearly as exhausting as the climb toward the turns. I think that many of us thought that the turns had begun far before they actually did. We all felt incredibly accomplished upon reaching the top of the turns, however, and were stunned to see the remarkable views from the top and to realize  that we had climbed 1000 meters since Qiaotou. We were all happy to rest at the top while we looked down at Tiger Leaping Stone in the canyon far below.  After spending time with fellow travelers at the top, we descended 400 meters towards the guest house where we planned to spend the night. After several more hours, we reached the Half-Way House, our home for the evening, having completed seven and a half miles on the trail.

After settling into our cozy little rooms, complete with slippers and electric blankets, we sat on the guest house's terrace and gazed at the amazing view of the mountains. While some munched on Snickers (Professor Brown is a great provider), we swapped romance advice and were lucky enough to gain some insight into Benjy's love life. We then went downstairs for dinner where, hungry from hiking, we had an amazing local-style meal of mushrooms, smoked ham, snow peas, corn, pork ribs, and tofu soup. We were also happy to see that some of the hikers we had met earlier in the day were also staying at the same guest house. After a long and satisfying dinner, we all sat around the table and played a game that let Professor Brown once again show off his singing skills; he's quite the showstopper.

When the sun set, we returned to the terrace to watch the stars. Throughout our trip, because of the pollution and city lights, we had rarely been able to see any stars at all. Sitting on the terrace of the Half-Way House, though, I don't think there was a single star that we couldn't see. I hadn't seen a sky that full of stars in a long time; it was really, really beautiful. We all had fun trying to pick out constellations; we even saw nine shooting stars! Even as it got a little chilly, we remained on the terrace and looked at the stars for a good portion of the evening, proud of the hiking we had done and excited to continue the next morning. As it got late, some went downstairs to the dining room to play cards while others decided to go to bed. After Suzanne and I figured out how to work the electric blankets, I felt very warm and cozy in my bed and happily read for a few minutes before falling asleep, exhausted from a long but incredibly rewarding day.

Rachel

We woke up this morning on our heated mattresses to a breakfast of banana pancakes and tea, watching the sun light up the mountains behind us as we ate. After eating, we continued where we left off on the trail last evening. Within an hour, we reached Tina's Guest House, enjoyed a quick cup of tea, and those of us who craved a treacherous side-adventure ditched our backpacks at the lodge to begin our descent down the Tiger Leaping Gorge to the river itself.

The descent was quick and steep, requiring a good deal of confident footing. The roaring of the rapids below grew louder with each step, and the beauty of the scene below became more and more evident. After several photo breaks, we reached the river. We spent a few minutes scrambling over massive boulders, worn smooth over time by the raging waters, before settling down on an overhanging rock to take in surroundings. The river absolutely flies through the narrow gorge, and directly in front of our rock turns to swirling rapids. After passing the rapids, the river splits a gate-like rock structure that emerges from the mountains on both banks. Upstream, we could see sections of the gorge that we hiked above yesterday and earlier this morning.

We tore ourselves away from the river and began our ascent back to the guesthouse. Standing at the river, it looked as if we had to hike up a perfectly vertical cliff to get back to our bags (Note from Professor Brown: Jack, our guide, reported that the pitch is "only" 80 degrees). After following a windy path for about 20 minutes we reached a fork in the road. Our options, as provided by a friendly hand-painted sign, were "Danger Ladder" or "Safe Path". In the interest of time and adventure we chose the former, and my hands were covered in icy sweat as I watched Professor Brown take the lead up the ladder. The ladder was metal for the first ten rungs before turning to wood, with each step slightly too far apart for comfortable climbing. The whole structure was held to the rock by what appeared to be long pieces of straightened out clothes hangers. We were thrilled when the last in line reached the top of the ladder, but quickly realized that we were only about halfway up the slope. "Hellish" might be the best description of the remainder of the climb; the sun finally made it over the far slopes and accompanied us all the way up the rocks to the guest house.

After lunch at the lodge, we headed to the first bend in the Yangtze River. Like the Salween and Mekong rivers to the west, the Yangtze initially travels north to south. Unlike the others, however, the Yangtze then suddenly turns back north before settling into its path to the east. The reason for this sudden reversal in direction is one measly little hill, which Chinese tradition says was plopped down to Earth to prevent the Yangtze from exiting the country's southern border. We climbed up the small but significant hill before heading into the adjacent town of Shigu, or Stone Drum. This small town is very important to the history of the People's Republic, as it was here that Mao led the Red Army across the Yangtze as he successfully retreated from the KMT in the Long March before heading north. The village featured several statues and monuments to the communist heroes along with information about the Long March. After a thorough inspection of the village, we loaded up in the bus, headed back to Lijiang, checked into our new hotel, and stopped by a local restaurant for dinner. On tap for tonight – shopping, strolling through Lijiang, and catching up on several days of blogging!

John

Today was a rather relaxing day.  We slept in and were able to partially recover from the two-day Tiger Leaping Gorge hike.  In the morning, several students went to the local market to see how Lijiang residents live while others opted to visit the Black Dragon Pool.  After the visits, we caught up with some leftover shopping.  Emily and I stocked up on local teas, including black tea infused with lychee and oolong tea infused with osmanthus.  

In the afternoon, we had our flight to Chongqing, the biggest city in China with a population of over 32 million people.  The change from the blue skies of Lijiang to the hustle and bustle of the city happened in just over an hour – and what a drastic change it was.  We arrived into Chongqing around 6:00, and from the size of its airport, we could already sense that we were indeed back in the city.  As the plane was landing, we saw Chongqing covered in haze, a combination of smog and fog, a dramatic change from the clear skies and fresh air of Yunnan.  When the plane touched the ground, Suzanne reflected that this was "the China that we remember," the China of the east coast – fast-paced, polluted, and crowded. Right from the airport, we were sucked right back into the urban life of China: the highway was packed with cars and along the way we saw a number of skyscrapers, new construction towering over us, and lights covering the entire city.  The transition into city life was not easy for me; I found the pace of Chongqing to be tiring and the lights to be showy and distracting.  I find myself missing the clear night and the stars of the Tiger Leaping Gorge.  

Our guide in Chongqing is Daisy, a tiny but extremely energetic and quick woman. Daisy seems to be a complete opposite of our guide Jack – in the same way that Lijiang is a complete opposite of Chongqing. For example, Daisy seemed to be quite proud of the advances that Chongqing has made as she pointed out the skyscraper which was built as a copy of the Empire State building of New York City, while Jack admired the beauty of the mountains during our hike.  She also told us that Chongqing women are just as spicy as Chongqing's food.

Chongqing is yet another link in our understanding of China.  It is interesting to see that this city is one to benefit from the hydroelectric dams built and scheduled to be built along Yangtze and other river systems.  As we walked around Chongqing after dinner and saw it covered in New Year's lights and bright lanterns, some people in the group wondered how much power it takes to power all those lights.  After seeing the environment under threat in Sichuan and Yunnan, it seems difficult to justify Chongqing's extravagance.

Tonight, we bid a fond farewell to Jason, our guide who has been with us since the very beginning of the Jan Plan.  Jason will return to his home town for Chinese New Year while we head further down the Yangtze.  He taught us a lot about Chinese culture and history; he will be missed!

Soelma

It's hard to believe that we are already on the last leg of our trip, spending the first of three nights aboard the S.S. Yangtze Princess headed down to the Three Gorges Dam. We are sharing the cruise (which caters to the 50+ crowd) with what seems to be a group of about 30 German retirees. We are all looking forward to the "fashion show" scheduled for tomorrow night at 8:30 in the Dynasty Dining Hall. Our fingers are crossed that it is interactive.

Today began with a visit to the People's Great Hall, a meeting hall built during World War II when Chongqing was the wartime capital of China. We hung out in the People's Square for a bit, watching elderly people do morning exercises such as couple's dancing, line dancing and martial arts.

Opposite from the People's Great Hall was the Three Gorges Museum. The architecture of the museum, with a big glass archway reminiscent of a dam, suggested that it would be about the Three Gorges Project. However, the museum was more about the wildlife and cultures of the banks along the Yangtze and the Gorges themselves. It is difficult to look at breathtaking photos of the gorges, knowing that some of those views have been forever lost, covered by flooding from the Three Gorges Dam. The museum had a collection of elegant figurines of the Buddha and we couldn't help but wonder how many other archeological relics have been drowned by the reservoir created by the Three Gorges Project. The way in which the exhibit was presented, as kind of natural progression ending with a model of the dam, seemed in keeping with the Chinese theme of improving upon nature, like the man-made gardens we visited in Yangzhou. The exhibit was, as Professor Brown put it, almost aggravatingly neutral. It presented photos of the gorges and taxidermy of wildlife along their banks, with no reference to what has become of these natural beauties since dam construction. Francis pointed out the theme of persistence in the exhibit; that nothing suggested that what was presented did not exist anymore. Our tour guide, Daisy, told us that her grandmother was one of the nearly 1.3 million people displaced by the dam. As is the case with most of the displaced population, she sees her movement as part of the country's development, an act of patriotism and selflessness in the good of the country. It is interesting from a political theory point of view to consider that this Communist country still contains the collectivization of thought even after the de-collectivization of property.

After visiting the museum, we ate lunch and waited until the restaurant closed for a cooking lesson. Sitting in front of left over food for an hour seemed to lead to a deterioration of civility at one of the tables, as Suzanne led a chorus of giggles and conversations about Space Jam. Finally, we were ushered into the kitchen in the back, where steam was rising and different pieces of nondescript meat were soaking pots stashed in nooks and crannies. We had about fifteen chefs watching us cook pork, chicken, tomato, eggs and tofu. The chefs tried (unsuccessfully) not to snicker at us. Their demonstrations made everything look so easy, then three by three, we stepped up to try our hand. It was clear from the first group's pork-carving experience that this was going to be an interesting lesson. "Very good!" one chef said unconvincingly a more came over to watch the foreigners flail in the kitchen. Rachel whispered that she had Band-Aids, as it seemed not unlikely that someone would chop off a digit. We frantically tried to take notes and one-by-one gave up, except Francis, who diligently scribbled in his little red (note)book. It was loud and hot and hard to concentrate with the chefs screaming in Chinese while Daisy was translating. The first three looked utterly terrified as they stepped up to the stove, which sounded like a jet engine and shot flame at least a foot into the air. The students were trapped into a two foot square between a table and the infamous stove, gated off by curry, salt, MSG, Chicken MSG, soy, starch, garlic and peanuts, and different shades of red spices. "Mix it!" Daisy yelled. "More water!" "Quick, quick, quick, quick!" Often it seemed that what she was screaming in English contradicted the chef's Chinese. Nevertheless, our dishes turned out well and we learned a few tricks to try at home.

After three hours in the sweltering kitchen, it was time to pick up some snacks from the local grocery store, grab a quick dinner, and meet our new German compatriots, who were interestingly enough at our restaurant. Stay tuned for an update from the fashion show – no doubt that this will be exhilarating. 

Chelsea and Benjy

When we first saw our elderly German co-passengers, the last thing we imagined was a massive dance party aboard the Yangtze Princess.  Clearly, China is full of surprises. 

Anticipating a majestic drum roll to indicate our leaving the Chongqing dock, we instead awoke to the frantic yelling of the crew coupled with the blasting horn of the moving ship.  I could already tell that it would be an interesting day.  For the first time all month, we did not have a jam packed schedule to follow, and seized the opportunity to relax, play board games, and spend the morning brainstorming for our final essays. We had an information session about the Three Gorges Dam in the morning, where our tour guide spoke with great pride about the project, apparently ignoring its many negative environmental and humanitarian implications.  His speech highlighted the many differences in Chinese and American thought, and I found it interesting to imagine what kind of bias a similar presentation in the US would have taken on. 

Later, we headed downstairs to the Dynasty Dining Room for lunch.  Accustomed to the spicy cuisine of Chongqing, we found lunch to be a bit bland, but the cake that followed nearly made up for it.  As dessert was served, we spontaneously serenaded Professor Brown with an untimely "Happy Birthday" (for which he later received several congratulations), and retreated to our rooms to nap, read, and gaze out the window at the large container ships whose construction we had witnessed several weeks earlier. 

While the free time was much needed, we welcome the chance to leave the ship and embark on our afternoon excursion to Fengdu ("City of Ghosts").  Upon arriving, much to our surprise, we were faced with hundreds of stairs leading to a series of mystical temples, each associated with Chinese superstitions that seemed to become increasingly more farfetched.   For example, in one area, visitors had to spin around three times with their eyes closed and touch a wall inscribed with Chinese characters.  Depending on which characters they touched, they would either receive the title of a "wholesome" or "playboy" (which, evidently, our group had several of).  Other tasks involved lifting a 365 lb stone and walking across bridges in exactly five or seven steps.  While I was not quite able to identify with the any of the legends that this city had to offer, the excursion was nonetheless entertaining and a good remedy for the cabin fever that we were all beginning to experience aboard the Yangtze Princess. 

Dinner was banquet style and began with a toast by the captain of the ship.  Although it was not as elaborate (or comical) as our first banquet, we enjoyed the opportunity to dress up in classic Chinese tunics and eccentric hair scrunchies that we purchased in Ligiang.  After the meal, we attended the long-awaited performance which was not quite the fashion show that we anticipated.  Instead, it consisted of a series of skits by crew members, many of which contained interpretive dances and even baby pandas.  The show concluded with a surprise dance party, providing us with the chance to finally bond with the other 30 passengers onboard. Despite the initial awkwardness, the night ended happily with all of us doing the conga around the room.  At various points, some of us even managed to overcome the language barrier to slow dance with the German tourists. 

Brooke

After a night of dancing with the Germans, many of us were able to ignore the soothing jazz that was our wake up call. However, as promised, knocks on our doors from Professor Brown got us up watch the sunrise and sip coffee and tea as we floated through Qutang Gorge. Although a day's journey away from the Three Gorges Dam, the water level in Qutang has risen 90 meters. The river no longer has a current and its banks are concrete. Still, the landscape of the Yangtze has made me feel as though we are navigating Norwegian fjords rather then the third largest river in the world.  Nevertheless, the Qutang's beauty is undeniable. In fact, Qutang gorge is featured on the back of the Chinese 10 RMB bank note.

After breakfast, we arrived at the mouth of a tributary to the Yangtze, Dali River. We boarded a smaller boat, complete with a large Chinese flag, and set out for a four-hour excursion up the tributary.

The water level of Dali river has risen 100 meters since the building of the Three Gorges Dam, necessitating the removal of a bridge and the relocation of Wushan, a city of 60,000. Most of Wushan's inhabitants chose to relocate to the new city, but some have moved to other areas. Everyone displaced by the Three Gorges Dam is compensated by the central government, although the amount varies according to where one moves, whether one has an urban or rural residency status, and whether a person has the monetary support of their employer. Our local tour guide told us that almost everyone is happy with their compensation and shared his relocation story: before the dam was built, our guide's extended family of seven lived in a 600 sq ft house, roughly the size of 2.5 Colby double dorm rooms, and shared a public toilet with other families. Government compensation and a help from his employer allowed our guide's immediate family of three to relocate further up the mountain into a spacious, three bedroom, 1,200 sq ft apartment.

Like good liberal arts students, we continued to be critical of the information we were receiving. Did farmers REALLY make more money growing trees on rocky hill tops? Surely some people were not adequately compensated? Chinese people often remind you that their culture is one of the oldest in the world and was the most advanced for centuries; not only was the fertile Yangtze River valley the cradle of all of Chinese (if not Asian) civilization, but it epitomized a beautiful and balanced landscape. Surely, I thought, people feel there is a loss now that these ancient towns and striking gorges, still proudly displayed in museums, guidebooks and even money, are underwater. Our guide then reminded me that while China as a nation has grown tediously, many still struggle to feed their families, and that many people focus on these things rather than history and archeological sites.

To some degree, we had to admit that although the dam had created a lot of real and potential damage, people ARE benefiting. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, the gorges are still absolutely breathtaking. IS the cost greater then the benefit? What is valuable? What is the alternative to damming China's rivers? Who are we to judge? After spotting wild monkeys and 2,000 year old hanging coffins in the cliffs, we reboarded the M.S. Yangtze Princess, questions still swirling.

Fast forwarding to the present and potentially coolest part of this whole trip, we are currently traveling through the ship elevators in the Three Gorges Dam. Immediately following dinner, we noticed a long string of lights lining the edge of the Dam's "wall." After successfully thwarting attempts to be ushered inside to watch another performance, we excitedly ran around the decks of the ship to check out the elevator system used to transport the ship down the dam through a series of steps. This is how it works: the ship enters through a colossal gate to the left of the "wall" into what feels like an enormous concrete box.  On the sides of the walls are columns with giant, rolling, steel hooks to which the boat is attached and stabilized by heavy metal ropes. The gates seal the boat into the elevator and the water is drained, thus lowering the boat. We thought this would be a process we would have to carefully observe to notice. Not so. We didn't catch any air or anything, but the change in elevation was obvious. On the first drop, we reached out and touched the sides of the elevator; within 10 seconds, we could no longer reach the same spot. At that point, Professor Brown reminded us that Chongqing, a city with a population of 32 million, dumps ALL of its excrement into the Yangtze. Anyway, after lowering 30-40 meters, the water level is equal to that in the following elevator, and the process repeats itself.

Petie

China, if anything, is a country that loves superlatives. There's the obvious: largest population in the world. Then there's the things we never knew were even ranked – number one village in China, fourth most beautiful garden, and just about every city claims to have the prettiest (or spiciest) women. So it was no surprise today when we visited the world's largest dam, the Three Gorges, something we've been anticipating the entire trip. It boasts not just the greatest length (1.4 miles), but also, as we learned from our guide, Kevin, it is the "number one concrete structure in the world."

We awoke early today, New Year's Eve, to the smooth jazz and (not so) soothing voice of our river guide, Christian. While carousing on the ship has its perks, most of us were relieved to leave our cruise in San Dao Ping, site of the dam, and remain on dry land. After boarding yet another bus, we joined our German counterparts for a multilingual tour of the dam.

Ultimately, the tour was short, considering how much we had anticipated this moment. While it was really exciting to actually go through the ship's five locks last night, viewing the somewhat empty (due to the holiday) structure from above provided us with an opportunity to compare the Three Gorges to the other dams we saw on the trip. It's definitely huge: 26 turbines the size of our tour bus spin beneath the concrete, each producing a huge amount of electricity, most of the power being transferred to Shanghai. We also learned about how the dam was constructed: this especially wide dam made use of an island in the river to create a diversion; trucks dumped rocks across the length of the river, creating a coffer dam, which made a dry area in the middle for the pouring of concrete. Dam construction began in 1996 and still isn't considered fully complete (although the concrete structure was finished in 2006).

We asked our local guide, Kevin, about some of the dam's environmental and humanitarian impacts. Because of preparation in our book seminar last semester, we were already well versed in the major criticisms surrounding the dam, especially from the Western perspective. We were also prepared for Kevin's answers, most of which were relatively nonchalant. Like many Chinese we've spoken to, pride for his nation masked most of the concerns we raised.

The group boarded yet another bus to head to the airport in Wuhan, four hours away. Upon arriving at the airport, we were excited to see a familiar logo on the second floor: TCBY. We eagerly handed over some Renimibi for scoops of Oreo, mint chip, and rocky road frozen yogurt. Most of us have been craving ice cream for the past few days, so we all pretended to enjoy the treat. However, Chelsea said it best when she exclaimed, "This is disgusting." While we agreed, we still cleaned our bowls. China might be able to build giant dams, but it definitely wouldn't win any awards for "number one frozen yogurt."

Emily and Suzanne

Note from Professor Brown: I am updating this blog shortly after midnight local time.  The New Year's fireworks have begun in earnest, and I can count no fewer than 27 firework displays from my hotel room window at the moment.  There is no more exciting place to be tonight than Shanghai.

After a night of amazingly loud fireworks that painted the sky when we arrived in Shanghai, our last full day in China started with a wealth of plans. After some discussion, we decided to spend Chinese New Year's Day as locals do – by seeing a temple and doing so shopping.  We also decided to visit the Shanghai Urban Planning Museum to get a better appreciation for the size and ambitions of the city.

Like everything else we saw in China, the Urban Planning Museum was big and bright, exuding national and local pride. Strolling through the museum's five floors, we saw the old and the new Shanghai, side by side. Comparing photographs depicting a "then" from the late 1980s with the present, we were fascinated with the incredibly accelerated pace at which the city grew. Highways replaced muddy alleys, bridges grew, and skyscrapers reached to the polluted canopy of heaven. A miniature model of the city with current buildings and future projects was spread across an entire floor of the museum and a virtual world theater welcomed everyone to experience the great city. In addition, one floor was dedicated entirely to highlighting preparations and plans for the World Expo 2010, to be hosted in Shanghai.

We then joined the masses in Shanghai's crowded but modern subway system to make our way to West Nanjing Road. The crowded Jin An Temple was welcoming everyone to pray and send their wishes to heaven. Incense smoke was swirling everywhere as restless people were waiting for their turn to pray for the wealth and happiness in the year of the ox. Even the outside of the temple proved to be a spectacle.

After witnessing the crowds at the temple, we walked along Nanjing Road toward the Bund. Versace, Prada, Cartier, Gucci, everything was there boasting and advertising with gigantic billboards and lights. We didn't get much time for shopping, but surfing through mobs of people was quite an experience. We also visited Starbucks for the first time since we arrived in China.

Our last dinner was spent in the company of Zach Goodnough (Colby Class of 2008) and Chih, together with his family. We ate our New Year's dinner at Quan Ju De, perhaps China's most famous restaurant for Peking Duck.  In addition to the duck, we enjoyed mapadofu, steamed Chinese cabbage, pork knuckles, and aubergines.  The amazing caramelized bananas and pumpkin puffs made this one of the top meals we enjoyed in China.

After dinner, we went to see "Era," an acrobatics show that our guide described as "the number one show in China, and maybe the world!"  It was breathtaking from start to finish.  The show mixed traditional Chinese acrobatics (such as running and springing through tiny hoops, bending into impossible poses, and spinning plates at the top of long poles) with modern acts (including balancing on a series of huge rotating wheels while jumping rope and juggling fire).  For me, the most amazing part of the show came at the end, when stunt men drove their motor bikes in a spherical cage with a diameter of only 6 meters. We were fascinated and terrified at the same time as up to eight motorcycles drove at incredible speeds around the cage. It was a spectacular finish to an exciting day and a fitting end to our trip.

The night continued with a tour of Shanghai's nightlife, led by our final guide of the trip,  Single, so named because he is an only child.

Before departing the hotel at 11:00 AM, we decided to aptly welcome in the new year of the Ox. What better way to do so than setting off our own string of 1000 firecrackers?

We then headed to the airport where we would say goodbye to China. Professor Brown, heading to a conference on dams, had an early flight at 1:30 PM. We gave our heartfelt goodbyes and were left to wait out the rest of the day, sitting and standing in lines. For lunch, some of us had our first western food in three weeks, though floppy fries and sauceless pizza disappointed many of those who did (Unfortunately, the Chinese appear to do western food as poorly as we do Chinese).

At 5:00 PM, we boarded our 13+ hour flight back to the US. We landed in Atlanta two and a half hours later (7:30 PM est.) Then, we waited an hour in customs, which, unlike China, is very slow and does a good job of antagonizing its own citizens. Afterward, our group split up to our separate domestic destinations. Along with six others, I flew to my final destination of Boston Logan, and headed home at 11pm. Still more, however, had hours more to go as they traveled back to Maine, and wouldn’t lie down again till to the early hours of the 28th.

Our flights gave us time to reflect on the trip. Though I feel that words cannot truly describe this experience, it was amazing, exhausting, incredible, and at times overwhelming. For a land of superlatives, I think Suzanne captured it most appropriately, “Best Jan Plan ever!!!”

Francis