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Test Procedure for Outdoor Ice Leaders Guidelines for Testing: 1) If a skill is tested or taught, it must be marked accordingly and dated. Any skill taught must be tested at least one week afterwards. 2) For a skill to be "passed" it must be demonstrated with an acceptable level of competency, as well as within any specified time limits. 3) Any section with a * next to it must be tested outside, in a "realistic" (i.e. on or above a cliff) setting. Any section with a # next to it must be tested with weight and in a vertical scenario (either on the climbing wall or on a cliff). 4) If skill is failed, it may be retested at least 2 days later, if retest is failed the whole test must be taken again at least 1 month later. 5) Testee may show knowledge of an equally applicable skill to replace the one listed, if tester approves. Skill replaced and skill tested should be noted. 6) Tester must already have pasted Ice Leader test and be a CMC monitor. Section 1: Knot Competency -Must be able to tie each of the following knots, dressed and in one try, in 30 seconds or under. Figure 8’s
Overhands
Hitches and others
*Section 2: Anchors -Demonstrates (verbally and through anchor building) knowledge of the following ideas: a) a SRENE anchor: the anchor is simple and/or solid, it is redundant (i.e. if one piece of the system fails the anchor can keep its integrity), it is equalized (and knows both types of equalization: static and dynamic), and there is no-extension if a piece fails (demonstrates that a dynamically equalized anchor does not meet no-extension) b) can make:
#Section 3: Belay Escape -Order of belay escape: 1) Block belay device with a mule 2) attach a prussik (or other friction hitch) to rope, and attach the friction hitch to the anchor with a munter/mule 3) unblock the belay device, lower load onto prussik 4) attach rope to anchor using a munter/mule -Must be performed in under 5 minutes.
#Section 4: Assisted Rappel -Order of Assisted rappel 1) Ascend rope with two points of attachment while not allowing climber to lower at all 2) Attaches climber to self 3) Rappels with climber
#Section 5: Climbing Competency -Climber must be able to top-rope a WI 4. If need be climber can weight the rope, as long as they appear to be confident.
Additional Comments: -Add any addition skills, training, or certifications (AMGA, UMGA, ropes course, WFA, CPR, etc.):
-Add any comments on skill competency:
Pass:____ Fail:____ Why:
Tester: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: Testee: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:
Refresher (must re-pass test at least once a year):
Tester: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: Testee: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:
Tester: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: Testee: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:
Tester: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: Testee: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:
Tester: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: Testee: Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: |
     
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