Outdoor Rock Leaders

 

Test Procedure for Outdoor Rock Leaders

Guidelines for Testing:

1) If a skill is tested or taught, it must be marked accordingly and dated. Any skill taught must be tested at least one week afterwards.

2) For a skill to be "passed" it must be demonstrated with an acceptable level of competency, as well as within any specified time limits.

3) Any section with a * next to it must be tested outside, in a "realistic" (i.e. on or above a cliff) setting. Any section with a # next to it must be tested with weight and in a vertical scenario (either on the climbing wall or on a cliff).

4) If skill is failed, it may be retested at least 2 days later; if retest is failed the whole test must be taken again at least 1 month later.

5) Testee may show knowledge of an equally applicable skill to replace the one listed, if tester approves. Skill replaced and skill tested should be noted.

6) Tester must already have pasted Rock Leader test and be a CMC monitor.

Section 1: Knot Competency

-Must be able to tie each of the following knots, dressed and in one try, in 30 seconds or under.

Figure 8’s

KNOT

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Follow Through

     

On a Bight

     

Double Loop

     

Overhands

KNOT

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Follow Through

     

On a Bight

     

Double Loop

     

Hitches and others

SKILL

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Prussik or Autoblok

     

Clove Hitch (optional)

     

Munter

     

Mule

     

Double Fisherman’s

     

Belay Device Block (i.e. specialized mule)

     

 

 

*Section 2: Anchors

-Demonstrates (verbally and through anchor building) knowledge of the following ideas:

a) a SRENE anchor: the anchor is simple and/or solid, it is redundant (i.e. if one piece of the system fails the anchor can keep its integrity), it is equalized (and knows both types of equalization: static and dynamic), and there is no-extension if a piece fails (demonstrates that a dynamically equalized anchor does not meet no-extension)

b) can make:

ANCHOR

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Verbally Explains SRENE

     

Two point dynamic equalized anchor (10:00 minutes)

     

Three point dynamic equalized anchor (10:00 minutes)

     

Two point statically equalized anchor (make sure of redundancy in master point) (10:00 Minutes)

     

Three point statically equalized anchor (10:00 Minutes)

     

#Section 3: Belay Escape

-Order of belay escape:

1) Block belay device with a mule

2) attach a prussik (or other friction hitch) to rope, and attach the friction hitch to the anchor with a munter/mule

3) unblock the belay device, lower load onto prussik

4) attach rope to anchor using a munter/mule

-Must be performed in under 5 minutes.

BELAY ESCAPE

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Belay Escape (5:00 Minutes)

     

#Section 4: Assisted Rappel

-Order of Assisted rappel

1) Ascend rope with two points of attachment while not allowing climber to lower at all

2) Attaches climber to self

3) Rappels with climber

Assisted Rappel

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Assisted Rappel

     

 

#Section 5: Climbing Competency

-Climber must be able to either lead (outside) or mock lead (in our gym) a 5.9 comfortably, confidently, and correctly (namely no back or "Z" clipping). If need be climber can weight the rope, as long as they are an appropriate height above bolt and appear to be confident.

-Climber must be able to lead belay correctly.

SKILL

TAUGHT

PASS/FAIL

RESTEST PASS/FAIL

Lead Climbing

     

Lead Belaying

     

 

Additional Comments:

-Add any addition skills, training, or certifications (AMGA, UMGA, ropes course, WFA, CPR, etc.):

 

 

-Add any comments on skill competency:

 

 

 

 

Pass:____ Fail:____

Why:

 

 

 

Tester:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

Testee:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

 

Refresher (must re-pass test at least once a year):

 

Tester:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

Testee:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

 

 

Tester:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

Testee:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

 

 

Tester:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

Testee:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

 

 

Tester:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date:

Testee:

Signature:____________________ Print Name:____________________ Date: