After 11 years of practicing “molecular gastronomy” at his Lower East Side restaurant, wd-50, Wylie Dufresne ’92 was forced to close when his landlord sold the building and the new owner intended to build something else in its place. An Esquire article celebrates Dufresne’s expertise and the life of his restaurant.

“What was striking about Dufresne’s food was not just its rock ‘n’ roll spirit; it was also the tension between its rock ‘n’ roll spirit and the rigor of its preparation,” Tom Junod writes. Dufresne created dishes “almost pharmaceutical in their precision. He made tiny time capsules of food that delivered not only novel combinations of flavor but also novel combinations of flavor designed to be experienced in the order Dufresne intended.”